La Merlina – Gavi di Gavi
La Merlina is one of the oldest wineries bottling wine from estate-grown grapes in Gavi (it is enrolled as bottler n.10 in the district’s archives). The estate dates back to the second half of the XIX century and the ‘Merlina’ vineyard has been run by the same Gemme family ever since. The Merlina vineyard was last replanted in the mid 50’s, with spurred Cordon training-system, and it lies in the prized Rovereto site, regarded as the appellation’s finest thanks to a combination of high altitude, south-east exposure and steep soils affording high drainage potential and elevated concentration of iron and quartz.
Nowadays, Fausto Gemme keeps growing Cortese grapes for his Gavi di Gavi Docg in accordance to a few simple principles of non-intrusive, low-impact viticulture (no systemic treatments, no use of chemical pesticides). Cortese grapes are hand-picked around the end of September / beginning of October. The vine density is up to 5.000 plants per hectare, and average grape yields x Ha. amount to 6 tons. Malolactic is let occur or intentionally prevented depending on the quality of the crop and the seasonal weather conditions.
The cellar protocol is simple: Fausto makes the wine on his own, trusting his own palate and going for a traditional white wine fermentation in stainless steel vats at controlled-temperature (plus a short stay on the lees in stainless steel vats, prior to bottling). La Merlina Gavi di Gavi displays a delicate, almondy bouquet, a bit austere and taut at first, then floral, sappy and even ferrous. Let the wine breath extensively in the glass or in the bottle, and it will unfold all of its underlying depth and complexity. Aromas of cherry flowers, guava, raw almonds, and ferrous minerality are in order for the 2007 Gavi di Gavi, built to keep well for 3-5 years following the date of release.
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